BEYOND AMSTERDAM
Gill Sherry
Amsterdam has long been considered one of Europe’s biggest party destinations. So much so that in 2023 the city launched a ‘Stay Away’ campaign in an attempt to deter rowdy tourists.
Anti-social behaviour combined with the sheer number of visitors had earned the capital an unwanted reputation. As a result, a 12.5% tourist accommodation tax was introduced, the smoking of cannabis was banned on the streets of the Red Light District, and stricter rules were implemented which saw reduced opening hours for bars and adult venues.
Opinions vary as to whether the campaign actually worked, but what many people don’t realise is that there is so much more to North Holland than Amsterdam’s somewhat seedy streets would have you believe.
There’s no doubt that the cost of accommodation in and around the city centre has escalated. So much so that my last visit to Amsterdam resulted in a stay some 10km away in Landsmeer. But although this necessitated frequent bus and tram trips, it also led to the discovery of some of the area’s hidden gems.
A short bus ride from our digs took us Monnickendam, a charming harbour town on the coast of Markermeer (Lake Marken). Although popular with tourists, it remains undiscovered by the bulk of the region’s visitors, resulting in a relaxed, unhurried vibe. It invited us to meander through the cobbled streets and unwind by the scenic waterfront, while reminding us of its maritime past.
Monnickendam translates to ‘Monk’s dam’, the town being named after the Frisian monks who built a small dam way back in the 13th century. It’s now one of the largest hubs on Lake Marken, attracting yachts, leisure craft and a fleet of traditional Dutch flat-bottomed sailing vessels. It’s also home to a number of houseboats, some of which serve as unique holiday rentals.
One of the most prominent landmarks in Monnickendam is The Speeltoren, a 500-year-old bell tower featuring the oldest carillion in the world. Not only is it the oldest instrument of its kind, it’s also the most out of tune, its multiple bells reminding you of this fact every 15 minutes throughout the day!
Other photo opportunities include The Waag, a historic weigh house dating back to 1668 which was once used to weigh the goods traded in the port; the Grote Kerk, the town’s huge Gothic church, a reminder of Monnickendam’s medieval prosperity; and the old smokehouses, still used today for the local tradition of smoking eel and giving the town its unique water-side smell.
Amsterdam is a year-round tourist destination and this neighbouring harbour town is no different. That said, once a year it hosts the Jan Haring Race weekend (named after a Dutch rebel fighter) when the historic boats take to the Markermeer. The race is a spectacle in itself, but don’t miss the other main highlight – the eel-smoking competition. Over 100 competitors take part, making it an absolute must if you enjoy smoked fish, particularly this delicious Dutch delicacy.
The festival also includes Choir Day with more than 20 choirs performing at different locations throughout the day, adding joy to what is already a thrilling weekend experience. The event is scheduled for the first weekend in July next year.
When visiting Monnickendam, a trip to Marken is essential. A former island, the village is now easily accessible thanks to the main causeway. It’s famous for its wooden houses built on stilts, but its quirky drawbridges are equally eye-catching. The villagers are known to dress in traditional costume so don’t be surprised to see embroidered corsets and lace headpieces as you amble through the cobbled pathways.
You can still expect gift shops, bars, cafés and restaurants in these Waterland destinations, but on a much smaller scale than in Amsterdam. You’re never far away from wooden clogs, waffles or smoked fish, but you’re a world away from the city crowds of ‘The Dam’.
Of course, there are still plenty of reasons to visit the city: Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank House, National Maritime Museum, Heineken Experience, Rijksmuseum, Icebar, AMAZE, National Holocaust Museum… the list is endless! And it would be remiss of me not to remind you, in this party-themed issue, that Amsterdam remains one of the biggest party cities in Europe, if not the world, so by all means make the most of your time in this crazy capital.
Despite the ‘Stay Away’ campaign, the Red Light District (De Wallen) is still one of the most visited places in the Netherlands, its Jekyll and Hide personality attracting between 8 and 10 million visitors each year. Many will seek the thrill of the neon lights and so-called ‘glass cabins’ presented by the nocturnal Mr Hyde, but plenty will appreciate the daytime ambience of one of Amsterdam’s oldest districts. Its historic canal houses, charming cafés and medieval streets are most definitely favoured by the respected Dr Jekyll. Take your pick!
You can fly to Amsterdam Schiphol Airport direct from Glasgow International Airport with KLM or easyjet. There are regular trains to Amsterdam Centraal from where the bus to Monnickendam takes 15-20 minutes.
