Bring Out The Brussels Sprouts!
Catherine Lawson
Love them or loathe them, Brussels sprouts are as much a tradition on any Christmas table as the turkey itself. Unfortunately, many of us remember the sulphurous stench of overcooked khaki green mush served up at school lunches, forever tainting our views of a vegetable that deserves a far better reputation. Like most plants, however, it all comes down to how you cook them, and when cooked ‘just so’ the ubiquitous sprout can be a thing of beauty.
Traditionally, Brussels sprouts are either boiled or steamed to be served alongside all the other festive vegetables on the table, and they can be delicious like that providing, of course, they’re served al dente with their vibrant green colour intact. Removing the outer leaves, trimming the base and washing them is all the prep you need to do before popping them in a pan of simmering water or the steamer basket for 3-7 minutes depending on their size (large sprouts can be halved). They’re perfectly cooked when a knife goes through with just a little resistance at which point they’re ready to be drained and served. With the addition of some cooked chestnuts stirred through, this is one of the simplest, tastiest ways to serve them.
Alternatively, sprouts can be halved, tossed in a little olive oil and sea salt, and roasted cut edge face down in a hot oven so they end up with a crispy, caramelised exterior. This method brings out a different flavour profile altogether – a profile characterised by sweeter, nuttier notes. If you’re feeling particularly adventurous you can even drizzle them with a balsamic glaze before roasting them which lifts those flavours to a whole new level of deliciousness. Again, retaining some bite in the texture is just as important here because over-roasting them can leave you with dried, bitter sprouts which will do their reputation no favours at all.
Pan frying them in a little butter or olive oil with some pancetta and sage is yet another way to cook and serve them which has become increasingly popular in recent years, converting even the most reluctant of sprout eaters. The other ingredients in the pan coax out a salty earthiness which gives the completed dish a rich umami flavour: served like this, sprouts can fast become the main event rather than the side show.
Sprouts don’t even need to be cooked to be appreciated for all that they offer. When shredded finely as the base for a winter slaw, they stay fresh in colour, delicate in flavour and tender in texture. Add in some other slaw favourites (grated carrots, finely chopped apple, dried cranberries, chopped walnuts, pomegranate jewels and a squeeze of fresh clementine juice), and a sprout-based slaw can be quite the surprise for those accustomed only to the overcooked variety.
There are numerous ways to enjoy these seasonal heroes whether it’s on the big day itself or throughout the season. As a member of the cruciferous family (alongside broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and kale) sprouts are a nutritional powerhouse packed with fibre, high levels of Vitamin K and potassium, and antioxidants which protect us from all kinds of winter nasties. They deserve their moment in the spotlight, sitting proudly up front and centre beside the turkey and surprising those guests who never knew they could taste so good.
