THE ISLE OF COLONSAY
GENTLY DOES IT…
Gill Sherry
At just eight miles long and two miles wide, the Isle of Colonsay is significantly smaller than its neighbouring islands of Mull, Isla and Jura in the Inner Hebrides. However, that doesn’t stop thousands of visitors making the trip over from Oban each year.
Known for its pristine beaches, varied wildlife and fascinating history, Colonsay has plenty to offer regardless of how long you choose to stay. The ferry crossing takes two and a quarter hours, so a day trip is not out of the question, and as one of the few Hebridean islands to have its own airport, a 30-minute flight from the mainland offers a surprisingly affordable alternative. However, to really get a feel for the island, longer visits are recommended.
In addition to The Colonsay Hotel, which is a short walk from the ferry terminal, there are various accommodation options ranging from self-catering cottages and traditional B&Bs to sleeping under canvas on the island’s one and only camp site. Cuan an Iar is the place to pitch your tent or, if you prefer a few more creature comforts, you can hire a cosy bell tent. What you can’t do is turn up with your caravan or mobile home, both of which are unsuitable for use on Colonsay’s single track roads.
The island has around 125 full-time residents who are both proud and protective of their Hebridean home. That said, being heavily reliant on tourism, the community is extremely appreciative of respectful visitors, so expect a warm welcome when you arrive at the pier in Scalasaig.
As well as being home to the island’s main hotel, Scalasaig is also where you’ll find the self-acclaimed ‘Best Wee Shop in the Hebrides’ (village shop and post office), The Old Waiting Room Gallery (gift shop selling local arts and crafts), The Pantry (restaurant/café), Wild Island Distillery (for island inspired gin), Colonsay Smokery (for local traditionally smoked salmon), and Colonsay Parish Church. You can also re-fuel your vehicle at the 24-hour self-service petrol/diesel pump.
Caution is advised on the narrow, winding roads. With that in mind, it takes between one and two hours to drive around the island, depending how often you stop to take in the view.
The road above Kiloran Bay is without doubt the most breathtaking viewpoint. Looking down at the expansive bay, giant white dunes, dramatic cliffs and turquoise water is an experience not to be missed. But walking barefoot on the sand is the best feeling of all, and despite being the most celebrated beach on the island, you may still have the entire bay to yourselves. Although popular with dog walkers, photographers, surfboarders and wild swimmers, as well as those with a bucket and spade, it’s unlikely you’ll be disturbed from your own appreciation of Kiloran Bay’s spectacular beauty.
Being west-facing, Kiloran Bay is also the perfect place to admire the sunset. From pretty pastel pinks to rich flaming reds, this is the one spot on Colonsay where bidding farewell to the sun is an absolute pleasure.
A traditional Finnish sauna is available for hire at Kiloran Bay. Both group and private sessions are catered for so if you fancy a little heat therapy after your cold dip in the sea, this is the place to do it. Combined with those stunning coastal views, it’s an experience you’re unlikely to forget.
On your journey around Colonsay, expect to see plenty of greylag geese. Many are resident on the island year-round, but numbers are significantly boosted by migratory flocks during autumn and winter. You may also spot both golden and white-tailed eagles, guillemots, kittiwakes and razorbills. If you’re really lucky, you may even catch a glimpse of a rare corncrake. The chance to do so attracts hundreds of visitors to Colonsay every year.
In the waters surrounding the island, it’s not unusual to see dolphins, porpoises and basking sharks, and keep an eye open for puffins on the coastal cliffs.
Unsurprisingly, agriculture and crofting are among the island’s main income streams and it’s not unusual to see ewes and lambs roaming the single-track roads. Rabbits and goats may also hinder your progress, but there really is no reason to rush. Colonsay has the ability to slow you down, both physically and mentally. It has a laid-back, almost lazy vibe which forces you to relax and take things easy. It is both casual and calm, the perfect place to put your feet up, forget your worries and appreciate the simple things in life.
There are, of course, events to entertain you should you wish to participate. The island hosts a variety of annual festivals including the Colonsay Book Festival (April), Colonsay Festival of Spring (May), Ceòl Cholasa Folk Festival (September), and its Autumn Food and Drink Festival (October). All of these are extremely popular so be sure to book your accommodation well in advance.
Another popular attraction is the Isle of Oronsay, which lies just south of Colonsay. This is where you’ll find the Oronsay Priory, a 14th century monastery which continues to attract pilgrims seeking temporary peace and refuge from modern life. Those wishing to visit Oronsay must rely on a one-mile tidal walk (the Priory is then a further 1.5 miles). Suitable footwear is essential as there could be up to 10cm of water to cross. Alternatively, you may wish to walk barefoot. In addition to the historic Priory, medieval carvings, and ancient gravestones, the entire island of Oronsay is a nature reserve.
Oronsay is only accessible for two hours either side of low tide. Timings are displayed at the post office on Colonsay. There are no facilities on the smaller island so be sure to take everything you need and allow plenty of time to explore and to walk back.
By its very nature, the Isle of Colonsay is a slow and tranquil place. It invites you to take a deep breath, relax and slow down. Your step will feel a little lighter, your smile a tad brighter, and your mind somewhat calmer. It’s a small island with a gentle heart and one which might just steal a little of your own.
To find out more visit
www.visitcolonsay.co.uk
