The Charm of Nice
Catherine Lawson
The French Riviera has an intoxicating, sun-drenched colour palette of its own, which perfectly captures the charm of the region. Crystal turquoise and topaz waters lap gently onto alabaster pebbles and soft golden sands. Buildings washed in warm ochres and blush pinks stand stark against an expansive cerulean sky. Hot pink bougainvilleas and rich purple lavenders sit against a backdrop of foliage which is every shade of green. And bright white touches frame it all, turning each destination along the coastline into a living work of art. It’s no wonder artists, musicians, writers and poets have flocked to the region for centuries, inspired in their creativity by the endless beauty around them.
Nice, the capital of the French Riviera, is the jewel in the crown. Nestled between the sweeping Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) and the spectacular mountain peaks of the French Alps, it has long been a glamourous destination for the rich and famous. Though a glittering destination in its own right, it is also the gateway to many iconic locations along the coastline, including Antibes, Monaco and Cannes – places which should definitely be on your itinerary when you visit the capital.
As a short city break destination, Nice really does have it all: world-class dining, bustling local markets, chic cafés, designer shopping, a vibrant nightlife, history, art and culture, stunning scenery, and of course, Mediterranean beaches to rival all others. It’s the perfect package.
When planning how to make the most of your time in the city, it’s worth splitting it into two easy parts – the old town (Vieux Nice) and the new town (Nouvelle Ville). Strolling through the old town, immersed in a maze of narrow streets which buzz with energy, is a glorious way to spend the day. Traditional pastel-coloured tenements, vibrant stalls, quirky shops and cafés galore can be found round every corner, and right in the heart of it all is La Place Rossetti – a pretty, picturesque square which is often visited for the atmosphere alone. On the west side of the square is the Cathédrale Saint-Réparate, a stunning Baroque cathedral which is well worth a visit for those who are interested in exploring some of the beautiful architecture in Nice.
A visit to the old town would not be complete without a trip to the much-famed Cours Saleya Market, located on a pedestrianised esplanade of the same name, just a stone’s throw from the seafront. Depending on the day and time you visit, you’ll find flowers (they might just be the most fabulous blooms you’ve ever seen), fruits and vegetables in abundance, gourmet foods, local artisanal crafts, and quirky antiques, including some vintage French fashion. It’s a sensory delight – a riot of colours and flavours and smells which carry the spirit of the region. It’s also the perfect place to stop for a bite to eat in one of the many Mediterranean inspired restaurants before stepping through the much-photographed Porte Fausse, an ancient passageway that takes you directly across to the palm tree-lined Promenade des Anglais, Nice’s most famous attraction.
A stroll along the Promenade des Anglais is an absolute must for the sweeping, uninterrupted views of the Mediterranean Sea alone. Tucked in along the bay you’ll find a host of cafés, bars and restaurants which are open day and night. Sitting under the shade of a blue and white parasol which flutters in the breeze is quite possibly the best way to enjoy the flavours of the Mediterranean, served as they should be with a side of sunshine and sea air. And if, after all of that, you have the energy for a slow steady climb, a walk up to Castle Hill (Colline de Château) from the old town is where you’ll snap the best panoramic shots of the holiday, with views that stretch across the full 20km of the Baie des Anges. It’s breathtaking.
The new town has a whole different vibe, being the commercial and retail centre of the city. This is the place to go for some high-end shopping and dining experiences, and to visit the Place Massená, a large square surrounded by Italian inspired architecture where you can sit and indulge in the art of people watching. The Avenue (Avenue Jean Medecin) is one of the most vibrant, energetic streets to explore in the new town, packed with luxury brands, department stores, boutiques, upscale restaurants and trendy bars. It’s chic Nice at its best.
The new town is also home to some of the capital’s most famous museums: the Matisse Museum, the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art, the Marc Chagall National Museum and the Musée des Beaux Arts featuring works by Monet, Picasso and Rodin. As a UNESCO World Heritage site, Nice offers visitors a cultural feast. Whether you’re visiting the museums, admiring the grandeur of the Belle Époque architecture, exploring the old Roman ruins, or appreciating the local gastronomy (which is an art in itself), you can be sure this is a city which will capture a piece of your heart.
