A Wee Trip to…St Andrews
Gill Sherry
It was my second trip to St Andrews and expectations were high. My first encounter was a sun-kissed affair, the North Sea masquerading as the Mediterranean, the temperature supporting its duplicity.
This time, it had reverted to character, that of a weather-beaten town famous for its golf courses and cathedral ruins. Balls were blown off course in the former, tourists sought shelter under a non-existent roof in the latter.
Still, the unmistakable sense of class remained. It would take more than a fierce wind and a squally shower to wash the affluence from this historic town.
Property prices are high, driven by its coastal location, large student population, and the high income potential from holiday rentals. Its three main 5-star hotels – The Old Course, Fairmont, and Rusacks – along with numerous other fine establishments, also attract wealthy visitors to the town. The Fairmont actually featured on my itinerary, the Lobster and Langoustine Roll proving too difficult to resist during a visit to the aptly named St Andrews Bay Clubhouse & Grill. With sweeping views across coast and countryside and surprisingly reasonable prices, it proved the perfect spot for a leisurely lunch.
Morning coffee had been enjoyed at a pavement café at the top of North Street, allowing me to indulge in a spot of people-watching while taking advantage of a brief break in the inclement weather. Those ambling along North Street included tourists laden with souvenirs, students (presumably between lectures), and locals going about their daily lives. A group had also gathered across the road at Northpoint Café. This was where the young William and Kate would meet during their time at St Andrews University, a fact which seemed to guarantee a steady flow of customers through its doors.
My walk to the bottom end of North Street took me past numerous shops and bars, ending up at The Dunvegan, or more accurately, ‘Golfers Corner’. This characterful bar has welcomed numerous celebrities over the years and the walls are adorned with photographs of the many famous faces to have visited, along with regular punters who have spent time (and money) at this prominent St Andrews institution.
More shops and eateries line Market Street and South Street, providing options to suit all budgets, including a particularly popular chippy. Cromars Fish & Chips is a short walk from the beach so, come sunset, you can pick up your fish supper and head to one of the many benches neatly positioned to overlook the sea. This, it would seem, is a great way to spend the evening, the smell of salt and vinegar tracing a fragrant path from the chippy in Union Street, all the way along to the coast. If you prefer, you can enjoy your supper in the shadow of the castle or cathedral ruins. I opted for a sea view!
As well as the various hotel, guest house, and holiday-let accommodation options, St Andrews is home to a first-class holiday park. The Abbeyford Leisure site is perched on the cliffs above the town offering panoramic views and excellent facilities. A short (but steep) walk leads directly to the beach where you’ll also find The Cheesy Toast Shack. This family-run business, with a view to die for, serves amazing toasties and is well worth a visit. But beware of seagulls. If they’re not trying to steal your food, they’re looking for somewhere to deposit their last stolen meal!
There’s no denying the economic impact of golfing tourism in St Andrews, but the town has so much more to offer than golf. In addition to the historical attractions of St Andrews Castle and St Andrews Cathedral, there’s also St Andrews Botanic Garden, Cambo Gardens, Scotland’s Secret Bunker, St Andrews Aquarium and Darnley’s Gin Distillery. Sadly, I didn’t get to visit any of these attractions during my brief stay, but I was able to stop off at The Scottish Deer Centre on my way home. A 30-minute drive from St Andrews, this is home to 12 different species of deer, as well as many other animals and birds, and provides yet another excuse to visit this east coast gem.
