A Walk Around Dumfries House Estate
Linda Brown
It is just after nine on a late summer Sunday, and I’ve arrived at Dumfries House, near Cumnock, ready to spend the morning exploring the estate’s attractions. At this early hour, there is hardly a soul about – all is quiet, save for the laid-back coos of wood pigeons drifting down from the treetops. A few wisps of cloud drift across pale blue sky and the air is mild; but there is a subtle shift in the atmosphere hinting at the change of season just around the corner.
Before I set off around the woodland and garden walks, I decide to take advantage of the tranquillity and head to the front of the stately home to capture some photographs. As ever, Dumfries House, with its parterre gardens and impressive water feature, The Mahfouz Fountain, is a magnificent sight. The flowerbeds and borders are still in bloom and bees buzz lazily between the hydrangeas and phlox. Dunnocks – small ground feeding birds – dart across the grass, foraging for insects and worms. A feisty robin swoops down to join the breakfast hunt, forcing the timid dunnocks to scuttle below the low hedges, seeking refuge among the foliage, until the little red-breasted tyrant moves on. Time I moved on too.
The grounds of Dumfries House are home to several species of trees, including majestic Giant Sequoias – towering redwood trees with broad trunks originally native to the western slopes of California’s Sierra Nevada mountains. One of most photographed specimens stands near to the Visitor Centre; its wide double trunk just begs to be climbed and provides an inviting platform for photo opportunities. As I pass by, a family is already gathered there, taking shots of their children.
I choose to follow the path alongside the Lugar Water. A heron is patrolling the river. His unblinking, sharp eyes trained on the surface, he is poised to pounce as soon as an unsuspecting fish swims into view. Up ahead, on the Chinese Bridge – an ornamental footbridge spanning the river – another young family poses for pictures beneath its pagoda centrepiece. Their loud laughter startles the heron. He unfurls his broad slate-grey wings and rises from the water, heading downstream. Gliding over the pagoda’s peaked roof, he’s watched in silent envy, or so it seems, by its decorative golden dragons.
Crossing the bridge takes me to the Arboretum. Once a boggy, neglected area of the estate, these days the Arboretum flourishes. Planted with a diverse variety of trees, shrubs and woodland flowers, and with two thriving wildlife ponds, it offers a peaceful space for visitors to wander, reflect and connect with nature. Blue tits squabble among the branches, wrens tut from the undergrowth and, overhead, chattering swallows swirl and swoop – blethering, perhaps, about their upcoming migration plans. Peacock butterflies flit among the flowers and foliage, guiding me towards The Queen Elizabeth Walled Garden. A solitary Red Admiral catches my eye, dancing from bloom to bloom, greedily supping nectar. I raise my camera to capture the moment, but just as I zoom in, he wafts away, seeking another flower to guzzle on. I mutter a gentle telling off. “Oh, for goodness sake, stay still won’t you, until I take your photo.” To my surprise, the butterfly flutters around my head, then lands on my T-shirt, slap bang in the middle of my chest. Jings, maybe the Red Admiral thought I wanted a selfie with him!
Inside the Walled Garden, it’s clear the Dumfries House gardeners have been hard at work over the summer. Well-tended floral beds, including a sweet patch of wildflowers, burst with colour. Apples and pears ripen on trellises, and an impressive selection of vegetables – squash, beetroot, kale, carrots and more – awaits harvest. Climbing the steps to the upper terrace, I pause for a few moments at the Chinese Pavilion (yes, yet more dragons) to admire the panoramic view of the gardens below, then retrace my steps to the Arboretum.
Strolling along the tree-lined Victoria Walk, I’m suddenly aware all the blue tits and wrens have fallen silent and disappeared. Even the ducking and diving swallows have made themselves scarce. Then I hear a clipped, high-pitched ‘kek, kek’ sound. A bird of prey? But which one? I tap my phone’s bird sound identification app. Within seconds it names the culprit – a sparrowhawk. No wonder all the little birds are keeping a low profile; the sparrowhawk has the reputation of being one of Britain’s most vicious birds, capable of striking at lightning-fast speed. I keep my eyes peeled, hoping to catch sight of the predator, but no luck – the sparrowhawk is well concealed somewhere in the surrounding woodland.
Skirting both ponds, I re-cross the Lugar via the historic and grand Avenue Bridge. Designed by architect John Adam, the bridge has carried visitors to Dumfries House since the late 1750s. This visitor is now craving coffee and cake at the Coach House Café. But first, being a big wean, I must conquer The Maze. I drop a pound in the admittance box and step through the gateway. I’m promptly swallowed by the tall yew hedges. Totally bamboozled, I weave a route through the narrow corridors, determined to reach the centre, while a giggling gaggle of kids and their mums loop back in search of the exit. Countless wrong turns, dead ends and some mumbled swearie words later – success! – I arrive at the heart of The Maze – a pretty Japanese-style pagoda and pond. No dragons in sight this time – only dragonflies. Common darters, skim the water and rest on the lily pads; their delicate mesh-like wings glistening in the late morning sunshine. Mission accomplished, I now need to find my way out. Surely it won’t be too difficult? Which way did I come ? This way? Or was it that way? Oh dear… I hope I’m still not wandering around by autumn.
