Dreaming of…
The Isle of Barra
Gill Sherry
The Isle of Barra may be significantly smaller than its neighbouring islands of North and South Uist and Harris and Lewis in the Outer Hebrides, but that doesn’t stop over 30,000 visitors heading to the isle every year.
The ferry from Oban takes just short of five hours. Many visitors, though, choose to land at the island’s famous airport at Traigh Mhòr where the beach allows scheduled flights to take off and land around the tides of the Atlantic Ocean. It’s the only such airstrip in the world, putting the unique journey on many a bucket list.
The flight time from Glasgow is one hour and fifteen minutes during which the anticipated beach landing adds to what is already a thrilling experience.
Despite the tiny and somewhat noisy plane, the flight is a pleasant one but, as with most excursions in this country of ours, it’s entirely dependent on the weather. Time it right and the landing is nothing short of breathtaking. The turquoise waters and vast, white sandy beaches could easily be mistaken for the Caribbean. It’s hard to believe it’s only just over an hour away from the metropolis of Glasgow.
If conditions are not quite so favourable you could end up with a bumpy ride and no view at all or, worse case scenario, a cancelled flight. Still, it’s worth taking a chance to visit this dream destination.
Unlike most airports, those landing on its beach runway feel no desire to hurry away. Many loiter to see the plane taking off. Others make themselves comfortable in the on-site café. This is a relaxed, welcoming space with a varied menu, friendly service and great views of the sandy airstrip. Such is the café’s popularity, it hosts evening events for locals and visitors alike. Karaoke anyone?
Away from the airport, the main A888 offers a 40-minute scenic drive around the island. It’s also possible to cycle the circuit or take a bus which travels the full 13-mile loop, but don’t be surprised to find a sheep or two delaying your journey. Rather than being an inconvenience, this simply adds to the charm of this tiny but welcoming island.
Accommodation options are wide and varied. From the spectacular, family-run Isle of Barra Beach Hotel to a selection of camping sites, there is something to suit every budget. That said, it’s recommended to book well in advance, not only to secure your chosen dates, but also because wild camping is forbidden. Driving your campervan or mobile home to Barra is not permitted unless you have a confirmed booking in place. Touring caravans are not allowed, either on the ferry or on the island.
For a small island, Barra has plenty to offer. It’s not called ‘Barradise’ for nothing, and time on one or more of its beautiful beaches is essential. Whether it’s a leisurely stroll, a lazy day in the sunshine, or a bracing cold-water dip, appreciating Barra’s beauty is arguably best done at the shoreline.
Tangasdale Beach sits just below the Isle of Barra Beach Hotel and although it’s one of the most picturesque spots on the island, you may still have it all to yourself. Both hotel and bay are dwarfed by the 333 meters of Ben Tangaval. Those walking The Hebridean Way will pass close to its summit, with plenty opting for a detour to enjoy the views from the top.
If climbing is your thing, you may like to tackle Heaval. At 383 metres it’s Barra’s highest peak and offers a panoramic vista of the surrounding islands.
Visiting the Brevig Standing Stone also involves a climb, but at just 300 metres it’s well worth the effort for more stunning views. The Neolithic stone dates to the Bronze Age and is three metres tall. If you like history, take the walk, take some pictures, and take a minute to imagine who would have stood before you over 3000 years previously.
Castlebay is the most populated village on Barra and this is where you’ll find Bùth Bharraigh, the visitor information centre. It’s also a shop selling everything from groceries and fresh produce to artwork and knitwear. It’s certainly the place to pick up a souvenir to remind you of your visit to this charming island.
If you like a tipple, head to the Isle of Barra Distillers on the edge of Castlebay. This family-run distillery produces island-inspired Barra Atlantic Gin, plus a selection of indulgent gin liqueurs. Their Island Dark Scottish Rum is also a favourite, as is their line-up of single and blended malt whiskies, the newest additions to the shelves. Tasting is welcomed so be sure to tease your taste buds before you make your purchase!
Sitting on its own island in Castlebay harbour is Kisimul Castle, the only medieval castle in the Western Isles. It’s an imposing structure which offers plenty of photograph opportunities, differing with the weather and the time of day. Although presently closed for conservation work, it is possible to hop on a boat and get a closer look at what’s known as ‘the Castle in the Sea’.
For a longer boat trip, you might like to visit the abandoned village of Mingulay. The last inhabitants may have left in 1912, but there is still plenty to see courtesy of the kittiwakes, razorbills, guillemots, shags and puffins that choose to nest there. You might even see a white-tailed eagle or a great skua. Cameras at the ready!
Across the island, dining options are plentiful, and seafood is a must, be it for an intimate evening meal in Barra’s finest hotel, a casual picnic by the sea, or how about a monkfish curry in Café Kisimul? Yes, traditional Punjabi cuisine has made it all the way to Barra and comes highly recommended.
Just south of Barra, accessed via a 250-metre causeway, is the Isle of Vatersay. Less than 100 residents stay on the island, but visitors are welcomed. The Hebridean Way begins on Vatersay with many participants taking time to admire its two beautiful beaches, Tràigh a Bhàigh and Tràigh Shiar. Separated by a strip of machair – not forgetting the iconic rusty gate – it’s without doubt the most photographed spot on the island. Other points of interest include the Catalina Plane Crash Memorial and the Annie Jane Monument, two evocative landmarks, each with a tale to tell.
There are tales aplenty to be found throughout the Outer Hebrides, and Barra is no exception. It’s a delightful destination just waiting to be discovered and an island to create stories all of your own.
Dreaming of Barra? Find out more at theisleofbarra.com
