SOUTH WEST COASTAL 300

A ROAD TRIP TO REMEMBER

Catherine Lawson

You’ve probably heard of the North Coast 500, one of Scotland’s most popular driving routes for tourists and natives alike, but chances are you’re less familiar with the South West Coastal (SWC) 300. For those of us local to Ayrshire we’re better acquainted with the glorious landscape in and around this part of the world but for those who are visiting, the hidden gems that can be found along this lesser-known route offer a reflection of all that is great in this country, distilled into one small compact region. Fairytale forests, majestic mountains, rugged coastlines, sandy beaches, rolling green spaces, an abundance of wildlife, and acres of starry skies are just some of the natural wonders you’ll discover as you travel between towns and villages brimming with history, charm and some of Scotland’s most iconic landmarks.

The SWC 300 route circumnavigates the Galloway Forest Park taking you to the most southerly point in Scotland (the Mull of Galloway), the highest village in Scotland (Wanlockhead) and of course into the Galloway Forest itself, a World Heritage Site and one of the best places in the UK to catch the Northern Lights. There are endless route variations depending on where you want to stop off along the way: you can cut the coastal mileage by staying inland and avoiding the detour to the Mull of Galloway, for example, or you can extend it by motoring in and out of every village along the way – the choice is yours. Whatever route you decide, though, be sure to take some time to go into the Galloway Forest Park itself (there are several routes in along the way) to enjoy one of the many beautiful walks in some of the country’s finest forest land. And if you’re lucky enough to be there at night, get ready to wonder at the expanse of stars above you.

Planning ahead is definitely the key if you want to get the most out of your time on the road and whilst it’s lovely to happen upon a natural wonder you knew nothing about, having the ‘must sees’ marked out on the map will help you get the most out of the many stunning places you’ll visit. Whilst you can cover the distance in a day, watching the sea whizz past on your way, devoting a week or two for some relaxed exploring comes highly recommended. One way to tackle the SWC 300 is to section it off into time chunks based on the number of days you’ve set aside to unlock the secrets of the south.

To help you on your way here are some suggested highlights from the main destinations en route: it’s worth keeping an eye out for the brown tourist road signs which will signpost you in the direction of some of the most popular attractions along the SWC300 too, however, as there are so many other places which might capture your imagination when you’re passing. Using the market town of Dumfries as your start and end point, the route can be divided into four parts as follows:

Stage 1: Dumfries to Isle of Whithorn

Dumfries is an ideal starting point to kick off your SWC 300 trip. It’s a beautiful old market town on the banks of the River Nith which boasts some famous attractions including Robert Burns’ House and Dumfries Museum. For the Campervanners out there it’s also the perfect place to pick up some last-minute supplies before heading south on the SWC 300. Some popular destinations along this stretch include:

• New Abbey – a pretty village which is home to Sweetheart Abbey, a Cistercian monastery founded in 1273 and built on a story of undying love.
  
• Caerlaverock – the site of an impressive 13th century moated triangular castle and Caerlaverock Wetland Centre where tens of thousands of wintering birds make their home in 1400 acres of wild reserve on the north Solway coast: a bird watcher’s and photographer’s dream.
  
• Southerness – with stunning views over the Solway Firth the sweeping expanse of sandy beach attracts flocks of visitors to this coastal village all year round. While you’re there you can also visit Arbigland House and Gardens set in 24 acres of woodland, and Bainloch Deer Park where you can get up close and personal with Scotland’s largest land mammal, the Red Deer Stag.
  
• Dalbeattie – for the mountain bikers out there Dalbeattie is the place to be. It’s home to one of the 7stanes world-class mountain biking centres, renowned for its challenging granite slabs mined from the town’s own quarries. If you’d rather explore the forest on foot there are countless walking routes which let you enjoy the best of the green space around you including the loch, the woodland and wildlife galore.
  
• Rockcliffe – another beach stop just south of Dalbeattie and a National Trust for Scotland nature reserve which encompasses ancient woodlands and meadows brimming with wildflowers.
  
• Kircudbright – a perfectly picturesque port town with a vibrant art scene which has earned it the nickname ‘The Artist’s Town’. You can visit Broughton House which was home to E A Hornel, one of the most famous ‘Glasgow Boys’ and which houses many of his original works alongside his quirky antique collection. From food festivals to arts and crafts trails to its very own tattoo and firework display there’s always lots going on here.
  
• Wigtown – officially known as Scotland’s National Book Town this is a book lover’s dream and a destination for some big names during the book festival each year (autumn). It’s also the gateway to The Machars, a peninsula for trepid explorers of all ages which offers cliff walks, cobble beaches, caves and castles.
  
• Isle of Whithorn – packed with character this old seaport has a strong spiritual history with St Ninian founding the first Christian church there in around AD 390. A visit to St Ninian’s cave which was once used by monks as a place of retreat makes for an excellent adventure. The harbour which sits at the centre of the village can probably be best appreciated from the Steam Packet Inn where you can enjoy some locally landed crab open sandwiches with a cask ale of your choice.

Section 2: Isle of Whithorn to Portpatrick
From the Isle of Whithorn the SWC 300 hugs the rugged coastline before heading down into the Southernmost point and back up to the far west coast from where you can see the Northern Irish Coast (on a clear day). Highlights along this stretch include:

• Glenluce – set in a valley this pretty rural village boasts a 12th century abbey along with the Museum of Monastic Life. The area attracts anglers looking to catch some salmon or sea trout in the Water of Luce and seasoned walkers/cyclists ready to set out on the 50-mile Pilgrim’s Way which starts in the village.
  
• Mull of Galloway – at the tip of this southernmost part of Scotland stands the Robert Louis Stevenson-designed lighthouse. It sits at the top of a 260ft cliff (115 steps to the top if you’re brave enough) surrounded by rugged coastline which gives it all the drama you’d expect from a writer of dark and thrilling tales. The area is a treasure trove of wildlife making it the perfect place to spot many of your favourite seabirds and, if you’re lucky, some porpoises and dolphins too. With its own microclimate, thanks to the Gulf stream, you’ll also find some stunning plant life on your travels.
  
• Logan Botanical Gardens – a whole world of plants can be explored here in Scotland’s most exotic garden. The magical walled garden is the perfect place to stroll and relax and the Potting Shed Bistro is a welcome stop-off for some quality food and refreshments.
  
• Portpatrick – nestled on the western shore of the Rhins of Galloway peninsula you’ll find this exceptionally pretty harbourside town which is lined with pastel-coloured houses and an impressive selection of pubs, eateries, coffee shops and chippies. Dunskey Castle (used in the film adaptation of Kidnapped by Robert Louis Stevenson) gives visitors a taste of history along with some spine-tingling ghost stories, and for a true memento of the SWC 300 you can clamber over some rocky terrain to get your photo taken with the saltire which stands proudly at the top. On a sunny day, however, this is a place made for slow strolls and lazy drinks in the sun.

Section 3 Portpatrick to Sanquhar
Once you leave Portpatrick you’re heading round the Ayrshire coast where you’ll find sweeping bays, rolling countryside and a fair few golf courses along the way. Here are some of Ayrshire’s highlights:

• Turnberry – the drive north up the coast from Portpatrick is a highlight in itself, taking you past the beautiful shorelines and sandy beaches of Ballantrae, Girvan and Maidens all with spectacular views out to Ailsa Craig (you can take a boat out from Girvan to this volcanic rock which is the home of curling stone granite and hundreds of thousands of seabirds) en route to Turnberry. Trump Turnberry is worth a visit even just for the joy of a drink enjoyed in grand surroundings overlooking an endlessly sparkling sea – they also do a fine breakfast for visitors as well as guests. While you’re there wander out to the stunning lighthouse, where you can also enjoy a quirky overnight stay.
  
• Culzean Castle and Country Park – set high on a cliff looking out to the Firth of Clyde, this National Trust for Scotland castle and estate offers endless fun for all the family with woods, beaches, play parks, gardens, a deer park, a swan pond, cafes and the occasional organised bug hunt. It’s well worth taking your time here to enjoy the grand architecture of the castle itself and all that the grounds have to offer.
  
• Alloway – while you’re in the birthplace of Rabbie Burns you can stop on your way through the pretty village of Alloway to explore his old thatched home as it was and the adjoining apple orchard where ancient varieties are once again being cultivated.
  
• Sanquhar – designated a biosphere community last year, this little village has a big history worth researching and a beautiful landscape to explore before delving into some of the surrounding attractions.

Section 4 Sanquhar to Dumfries
There are some popular attractions to enjoy along the last stretch of the SWC 300 which will take you back to where you started, the first being in Sanquhar itself:

• Crawick Multiverse – a magnificent art installation designed by the late Charles Jencks as part of a major land restoration, science and art project (open March to November). It’s a truly spectacular vision of the universe where you can enjoy the astrological magic of the land while picnicking in the Sun Amphitheatre. A treat for all ages.
  
• Wanlockhead – sitting at 467m above sea level this is Scotland’s highest village. You have to go just to say ‘been there, done that’. While you’re there, pop into the Lead Mining Museum which takes you on a journey into the Lowther Hills to hear about Scotland’s gold rush.
  
• Dumfries – once back in Dumfries you might want to take a moment to catch your breath, fuel up and reflect on all the wonders of your journey through some of Scotland’s most stunning landscapes. Laden with local delicacies from land, sea and air, the Kilnford Farm Shop and Farmhouse Kitchen is a welcome stop for that well deserved scone and pot of tea at the end of what is sure to have been an adventure to remember.