Gemma Sangwine

Hats off to this ethical milliner!

Gill Sherry

“From a young age I was very much aware of climate change, and the effect that human activity was having on the environment, but also this concept of throwing something away… it doesn’t just disappear, it goes somewhere.”

I’m chatting to Gemma Sangwine, designer and creator of ethical and sustainable hats and hair accessories. As a child, her parents rarely threw anything away and she would often wear hand-me-downs from her older sister. That concept of recycling and reusing never left her and now plays an important role in her business.

“When I first started out, I didn’t shout about the fact that I was recycling and reusing because there was still some of that stigma attached to it, or people expected it to be cheaper or somehow sub-standard, so I’m really glad that things have shifted and I can now talk more openly about sustainability and why it’s so important.”

When creating her unique headwear, Gemma tries to reuse existing materials such as vintage costume jewellery. She shows me a beautiful bridal tiara made from old broaches which, let’s be honest, people don’t wear these days. It’s formed on a wire frame.

“I don’t use any glue. The idea is that should you want to, it can be taken apart and turned into something else.”

She also makes headbands from old clothing, berets from old woollen jumpers, and sources old haberdashery pieces like vintage flowers.

“I’m always looking for nice fabrics like silks and linens. The better quality the material, the easier it is to work with, and the more its life can be extended.”

She shows me another design, this time a more traditional ‘percher’ hat.

“This is made from straw, a real traditional millinery material. I take an old straw hat, cut it up, reshape it over a wooden block, and make a new hat. And because everything is stitched and it’s a lovely, good quality material, it can then be reshaped again further down the line.”

It seems that as well as looking back for old and existing materials, she’s also constantly looking forward and imagining how her own creations can be reused.

“When I come to make something, I don’t instantly think, I need to go and buy some new materials, my first thought is always, how can I source that second-hand and sustainably? Also, I’m thinking, what then happens to this? If it gets worn by a bride for her wedding, it’s a shame if that then goes in a cupboard and never gets used again. What I try and do is either make something they could wear again or hire things out.”

That sounds like a great idea, and it’s a practice that’s being embraced by the younger generation.
“There did come a point in the early 2000s when there was a lot of stigma around having second-hand. If you couldn’t afford to buy new things there was a sense of shame attached to it. But if you’re just going to wear something once, why not rent it? It’s great that there’s been a shift and that the younger generation are quite happy to rent something. It’s becoming a badge of honour now.”

This is backed up by the Style Awards at Ayr Racecourse where the Sustainable Style Award is considered just as important as the more traditional Most Stylish Hat, Most Stylish Lady, and Most Stylish Couple Awards.

Having recently moved from Gloucestershire to South Ayrshire, Gemma is hoping that the local horse racing fixtures will be good for business. But when it came to moving north, the region’s history also struck a chord.

“Ayrshire is just beautiful… the sense of space, the light, the beaches. Also, there is quite a lot of history around the textile industry, and around crafts and making, which really resonated with me.”

She’s hoping to tap into the local craft scene by offering workshops in partnership with CRAG Community Arts in Girvan. So if you fancy making slippers from old felted woollen jumpers or fabric headbands from old clothing, you could be in luck. And when it comes to tutors, they don’t come much better qualified than Gemma.

“I had an opportunity to study with Denise Innes at British School of Millinery. It was really hands-on, learning the traditional skills of making hats. It was lovely learning with Denise because she was taught by another milliner called Rose Cory who was the official milliner to the Queen Mother back in the day.”

The process of making hats is called blocking and involves stretching felt or straw over a wooden hat form and using heat and steam to fix the desired shape.

“They are very traditional skills, a bit like pottery or basket weaving, where you’re learning the techniques of how to do things properly. Then you can go off and create things in your own way.”

Which is exactly what Gemma is doing now. For someone who believes in expressing yourself through your clothing, accessories and personal style, it’s the perfect craft. And, thanks to the royal family, it’s a craft that’s thriving.

“William and Kate’s wedding really boosted the industry because all of that was televised, and every attendee wore a hat. Up until that point, wearing hats had fallen out of fashion a bit, people didn’t really wear them to weddings… so the royal family has really helped to boost it. And the races as well.”

That said, she would still encourage people to think twice before rushing out and buying a new hat.

“Maybe consider hiring if it’s for a one-off event. The other thing I do is customise pieces. We got married five years ago and my sister got married 13 years ago, and my mum actually wore the same hat for both weddings. I retrimmed it for her. So if you’ve already got a hat, I can just add some extra trimming to tie it in with your outfit.”

It’s the ideal solution for those who, perhaps, can’t stretch to a bespoke headpiece. But, if you’re still unsure, Gemma’s work comes highly recommended. In fact, if you’re familiar with the TV series, The Outlaws, you may have seen one of her creations on screen.

“I was contacted by the costume designer that was working on The Outlaws. I made three pieces for one of the main characters, Lady Gabby. One of them was a pompom headdress, so in some of the scenes, she’s wearing this big, crazy pompom headdress. I make all the pompoms myself from scraps of wool. It’s great that it’s featured on TV and that she’s wearing pieces that were made sustainably.”

You can find some of Gemma’s ready to wear creations at Eco-Bride Studio in Bathgate near Edinburgh or on her Etsy shop, GemmaSangwine. For rentals, see www.byrotation.com, and for bespoke enquiries, visit www.gemmasangwine.com.

Until then, she has one final thing to say: “Every time you want or need something, have a look at what you’ve already got, don’t instantly rush out and buy something new. Do you have something in your wardrobe that you could wear, or is there something you could borrow, hire or customise? We’ve got to reuse what we’ve got, we can’t just keep manufacturing, producing and consuming stuff.”