A WEE TRIP TO…PORTPATRICK
Gill Sherry
The picturesque village of Portpatrick is a popular destination for day-trippers and holidaymakers alike. Situated on the west coast of the Rhins of Galloway in the historical county of Wigtownshire, it’s a mere 90-minute drive from Ayr, making it the ideal location for an impromptu getaway.
Affectionately referred to by many as “The Port”, Portpatrick thrives on tourism with visitors flocking to its quaint but colourful harbour in their droves. Low tide reveals an arc of sandy beach, perfect for paddling or sunbathing, and the harbour itself sees vessels from the Isle of Man, Ireland, and the Highlands and Islands cruising in and out with regularity.
Portpatrick is a compact wee village, with the majority of its attractions huddled around the harbour. There are restaurants, pubs and cafés aplenty, most with stunning views beyond its stumpy lighthouse and, unsurprisingly, offering freshly caught local seafood.
The hostelries are usually abuzz with atmosphere but they’re even more lively during one particular weekend in September. This year, the Folk Festival will take place from 6th to 8th September so live music and good fun are guaranteed! Talented musicians will converge for their own enjoyment as well as that of their audience and, weather permitting, the joviality is sure to spill outdoors! With the sea cliffs creating a natural amphitheatre, it’s the perfect spot for this festival of traditional music.
After a night of singing, clapping and foot-tapping, there are ample opportunities to blow the cobwebs away, one of which involves a fairly steep walk (around 140 steps) up to Dunskey Castle. It may be an effort, but the views are amazing – on a clear day you can see as far as Ireland – and (depending when you visit) you can appreciate the beautiful wild flowers and the nesting sea birds that hug the cliffs.
The castle itself is a 12th century tower house, now reduced to ruins, and although you can’t access the interior, it affords magnificent photo opportunities, particularly at sunset.
If you fancy a longer walk, Portpatrick actually marks the start of the Southern Upland Way, a route that stretches 214 miles in its entirety. The first leg, however, will take you to Castle Kennedy, a distance of 13.5 miles that is described as ‘a gentle start to the route’.
Back in Portpatrick, there are more ancient ruins to explore. St Patrick’s Church lies in the centre of the village a short walk from the harbour. Its round tower led some to believe it was originally intended as a lighthouse or, perhaps, for defensive purposes. Whatever its origin, its ruins offer a glimpse into the past, as do the headstones in the adjacent cemetery.
If history’s not your thing, you could test your skills on the local putting green, or browse the handful of shops. Smugglers Cove is always worth a visit, and don’t forget the RNLI shop situated next to the Lifeboat Station.
The months from May to September are generally acknowledged as Portpatrick’s high season but it is, in fact, a year-round destination. It gets particularly busy on New Year’s Day when people gather for the Loony Dook. This sponsored swim in the bracing Irish Sea raises money for charity and has been growing in numbers (both participants and spectators) since the very first Loony Dook on 1st January 2010. What do you think… are you up for it?
There is no shortage of places to stay in Portpatrick. As well as hotels and B&Bs there is a good selection of private accommodation including everything from apartments and cottages to converted churches and castles. There are also numerous holiday parks and camping options.
The beauty of Portpatrick, aside from its glorious coastal location, is that you can do as much or as little as you wish. So… what are you waiting for?
